200

[snocatpete]

When pressing out the shaft I use a custom made tool to support the bearing hub while I am pressing on the shaft. By supporting directly at the hub I don't put any side load forces on the web of the wheel.

[snocatpete]

Once I have the axles removed I clean them up. These pictures are before and after pictures.

[snocatpete]

After I clean them up I then put them on a simple set of v blocks and use a dial indicator to check the run out on them. I think this is particularly important to check the front axle given the condition of the front fender it has probably taken some pretty direct hits on the front sprockets thus bending the front axle. I did find the front axle was slightly bent on the stub shaft so after a couple of adjustments in the shop press I was able to get it back to zero run out. Then I gave the axles a coat of primer just to prevent future rust.

[snocatpete]

Checking the front axle tube for welds. In my experience, cracking paint usually indicates a crack in the weld (but not always) as in this case it was just the paint cracking not the welds.

[snocatpete]

Also paying close attention to the Morse chain sprocket considering the amount of mileage on this Hus-ski, this sprocket is in surprisingly good condition.

[snocatpete]

The paint on the wheels also showed signs of possible cracking in the webs around the hubs but again once it was cleaned up and inspected closely, no cracks were found. Also in the inspection of the wheels the drive side of the wheels showed considerable wear so to help correct this problem I swap them from side to side so the back side of the tooth now becomes the drive side as there is no wear on the back side of the tooth. I also cleaned up the flanges (or mating surfaces) of the axle tube and the wheel.

[snocatpete]

These pictures are of the wheels showing the wear on the drive side and no wear on the back side.

[snocatpete]

These next pictures show installing new bearings. I use a custom made tool to install them that can be used either with a hammer to lightly tap them in or used in a shop press to press them in. This tool pushes on both inner and outer races at the same time so there is no side loading (or pressure) on the bearing when being pressed. I also use anti seize on the bearing spacer that goes between the two bearings. Hopefully this will help with future disassemblies if need be.

[snocatpete]

Also when I reassemble I use new lock washers and red Loctite on the bolts. I also cleaned up the track adjustors on the wire wheel as well then I gave everything a temporary coat of primer.

[snocatpete]

This picture shows the original bearings and the new bearings. Given the age of the original bearings and what appears to be a lot of use on this Hus-ski they were in surprisingly good condition but for the price of these bearings it is well worth it to replace them.