Bolens Diablo Rouge and Hus Ski Discussion Forums

snocatpete · Post by **snocatpete** » Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:09 pm

This is the crack in the filler neck and the repair

snocatpete · Post by **snocatpete** » Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:13 pm

the next two pictures are looking down the filler neck after I removed the Metal Rescue. Hopefully the picture shows how it is now spotlessly clean and rust free. I have had really good luck using Metal Rescue. I have used it a couple of times before. I am just curious if anyone else has tried this and what they think of it?? The last picture is the tank ready to be painted.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:59 pm

Since there are no documents for husski indicating design changes we can only go on what seems "consistant" within a model. Steel sliders and aluminum hood latch on an early 200A.....definitely possible. Morse clutches on a 200A with bent handlebars and curvey tube sled...unlikely but maybe they cleaned out the shed and found those clutches. Knowing that they fail would be a bad choice of installation.

snocatpete · Post by **snocatpete** » Tue Dec 19, 2017 10:27 pm

I am so confused now lol! If I am reading your last post correctly Barrie you are definitely saying that the Hus-ski I am restoring on this thread and the one I had way back in the 70s are both 200s. Even though they both have different sleighs and different handlebars and different clutches. Is that correct? you believe they are both 200s?
You keep saying that the Morse clutch had a high failure rate which I am a bit surprised to hear because the 200 with the Morse clutch I can honestly say I have no idea how many hours and winters I put on that Hus-ski and I had zero failure or issue with those clutches. I was personally always impressed with those clutches as they worked so well. But that is a whole other conversation!

kmskidog · Post by **kmskidog** » Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:32 am

You have to keep in mind that many of the updates than eventually made up a factory issued 200A were applied to the model 200's at the dealer and owner level. See my write-up under Hus-ski Information, model 200A. Ken M.

kmskidog · Post by **kmskidog** » Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:37 am

Also the Fairbanks primary clutch was not designed for a 2 stroke engine. It was not rated for the RPM's possible for the L152. If someone revved up he motor without a belt on or if the belt broke during operation, the engine would over rev and achieve RPM that exceeded the limits of the clutch. Thus the fly weight balls would fracture the outer housing of the clutch. Ken M.

Parry · Post by **Parry** » Sat Dec 23, 2017 7:25 pm

snocatpete wrote:the next two pictures are looking down the filler neck after I removed the Metal Rescue. Hopefully the picture shows how it is now spotlessly clean and rust free. I have had really good luck using Metal Rescue. I have used it a couple of times before. I am just curious if anyone else has tried this and what they think of it?? The last picture is the tank ready to be painted.

I'm just curious about how long you left the Metal Rescue in the tank? I have to clean the rust out of the tank on my 200a and on a Wheelhorse sled I have. And can you use the Metal Rescue again?
Thanks,
Parry

snocatpete · Post by **snocatpete** » Wed Dec 27, 2017 10:31 pm

Ken, thanks for the explanation about the clutches. It makes sense that they failed if they were not designed for two cycle engines. I can only write of my experience which was very positive with this type of clutch. I guess I was just lucky with mine. I never broke a belt and I never drove it W O T.

Parry- I fill the tank as full as possible, seal it and stand it on end for about 24 hours, then flip it over on to the other end for another 24 hours. I also agitate it several times throughout this time period. This process depends on how bad the rust is ?? And the instructions on the container are very clear and easy to follow and Metal Rescue is endorsed by Frank Fritz so it must be good stuff !!!! LOL

Parry · Post by **Parry** » Sat Dec 30, 2017 7:29 pm

snocatpete wrote:Ken, thanks for the explanation about the clutches. It makes sense that they failed if they were not designed for two cycle engines. I can only write of my experience which was very positive with this type of clutch. I guess I was just lucky with mine. I never broke a belt and I never drove it W O T.

Parry- I fill the tank as full as possible, seal it and stand it on end for about 24 hours, then flip it over on to the other end for another 24 hours. I also agitate it several times throughout this time period. This process depends on how bad the rust is ?? And the instructions on the container are very clear and easy to follow and Metal Rescue is endorsed by Frank Fritz so it must be good stuff !!!! LOL

Thanks for info. I guess anything is worth a try.
Parry

snocatpete · Post by **snocatpete** » Sun Dec 31, 2017 12:22 am

Once both axle assemblies were removed, I carefully disassembled, cleaned and thoroughly inspected all parts for wear, cracks or breaks. This also includes carefully inspecting all welds. Then installed new bearings and applied a temporary coat of primer until final prep and paint.

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