seeing red!!!

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:43 pm

Removing the tires was not as bad as initially though. After a dozen or so I was taking a tire off in 30 sec. That's almost as good as an F-1 racing crew. I could not endure more than a continuous hour of sandblasting those boggie stations so I did them over a period of two weeks at times when my patience was on high.

Greasing the inside of the tire rims is a good idea. I'll do this after the painting.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 8:04 pm

The amazing thing about those boggie rubber wheels is their resilancy after 40 years. After they were painted I greased the rims as Bruce had recommended. Another friend sugested that I also oil the wheel to make it slip over the rim. That seemed like a good idea before any thought about stretching an oiled rubber wheel over a larger greased rim. Visions of slipped grips and skinned knuckels convinced me to use gloves for this adventure. I voted against oiling the tire and went ahead with a "dry stretch". The first few were "tiring"....ok, I couldn't avoid saying that!! No skinned knuckels thanks to the gloves. Eventually my installation technique improved and one hour would have a set of boggies assembled for one machine. I found that folding the tire in half, then pushing it onto the rim as far as possible would make the "screwdriver" prying easier. There remains one set to assemble. It is odd how parts painted black continue to make me see "red"!

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 8:09 pm

This is the fourth photo in the boggie wheel assembly.

Go Go Diablo · Post by **Go Go Diablo** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 8:47 pm

Barrie never stops amazing us. Notice in the last picture how he has two hands on the screwdrivers yet somehow holds the camera to snap a picture.

Thanks for sharing my friend.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:31 pm

No more!! The end!! Nada!!! Neicth!!! The rest will "rest in Pieces"!!! I'm done, through, finished with those endless numbers of boggie stations and rubber wheels!!!!!! I took a last deep breath and assembled the last set of boggie stations for my fourth Diablo.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:30 pm

As is often the case, all but one screw came out after heating. This screw was stripped so that the allen key could not turn it. I welded the rod to the screw, heated it until red, then with the vise grips, removed the screw.

Go Go Diablo · Post by **Go Go Diablo** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:55 pm

Barrie,

In my experience, this is the worst case. But you sure have shown us a way to get that screw out when it is stuck that hard.

Typically, I take a chisel and tap on the outage edge of the screw top in the counterclockwise direction. The amount of torque applied to the outer edge of the screw along with the tapping of the hammer usually breaks them loose. I've got plenty of these screws and beveled star washers on hand and never re-install a used screw for just this reason.

Thanks for sharing my friend.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:35 pm

I had an NOS recoil scanned for paint color then sprayed these engines. I believe it to be an exact color match to the original recoil. One of these engines was sprayed completely assembled, one in pieces, and two without the head. Good taping is essential but my it was my preference to spray the engines without the head. Much lighter to move and no critical tapeing to be done.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:44 pm

I had often wondered why this seater had such a crumpled section where the skiis attached. This is a seater from an early production machine whereby the seater was not reinforced with the plate inside the toolbox. Due to this, they often crumpled from the weight of the riders and the stress created with a rough terrain. This crumpled section had been hammered out then reinforced with the plate. On this machine the plate is loose, later machines were made with the plate and welded in place. I cut out the bad part just smaller than the width of the plate. This will eliminate me having to grind smooth the inside (much more difficult). I did not bend in the two ridges on the replaced piece because these ridges usually get squeezed flat from the pressure from the spring fasteners.

Barrie2777 · Post by **Barrie2777** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:24 pm

Christmas came early with the arrival of a box of 6mm cap screws and 6mm nuts. I felt that because of the new paint on these engines , they deserved new cap screws to hold the recoils in place as well as new cap screws to hold the flywheel cover in place. These parts allow me to assemble these engine which have been apart ohhh sooooo longgggggg!!! Thw recoil needs 6mm x 45mm cap screws while the flywheel cover needs 6mm x 35mm The cover over the head requires 6mm x 18mm cap screws. All need a small lock washer under the head of the cap screw.