200

[snocatpete]

Yes, that is a very good point that it is a left hand thread! Also you mention it is a fine thread (24 TPI I THINK) so I think it's worth saying caution should be given when threading them back together so as to NOT cross thread them.

Regarding the inner sheave puller, the short answer is it's not a puller it's a custom made knock off tool

[randys444]

Looks like the project is coming along nicely. You have very detailed and informative posts. I enjoy reading them and they are very helpful to myself and I'm sure many people. Keep up the excellent work. Look forward to seeing the finished product.

[snocatpete]

Randy thanks for mentioning that I really appreciate. but some times I think I go overboard!! and I too will be glad to see it done. It's taking a lot longer than I thought

[snocatpete]

Next, I continued to carefully disassemble the rest of the engine, removing the fly wheel, cylinder head and cylinder.
I use a small sharp chisel to make a reference mark for the magneto back plate (on Pg 4 in the HUS SKI manual it says to use a scriber or a pencil to make a reference mark). This mark is good for a starting point for setting the timing on reassembly but I will also use a dial indicator and multi meter to accurately set the timing. Using a puller to separate the crank case and remove the crank shaft, I will replace the bearings, seals and all the gaskets. I will clean and inspect all parts before reassembly.
After removing the magneto/point backplate, I noticed the points contacts were very black and burnt. To me, this is an indication of a bad condenser. So needless to say, those parts will be replaced. The following pictures are further disassembly.

[snocatpete]

marking the back plate and noting the location of the cam

[snocatpete]

this black mark on the case is a tell tail sign the seal is leaking and the pencil is indicating some small damage to the case but not enough to affect the seal or the case or anything to be concerned about.

[snocatpete]

cylinder head, cylinder removed and using a puller to separate the crank case

[snocatpete]

using the same puller to remove the bearings

[snocatpete]

getting nice and clean for final inspection before assembly can begin

[snocatpete]

Next I cleaned the cylinder and cylinder head, wire brushed them and gave them a thorough inspection and then painted the cylinder with a fresh coat of black paint. And after removing the old crankshaft main bearings, I used a press to install the new ones. I also inspected the rod bearings and they were in excellent condition so no need to replace them. At this time, I also removed the rings from the piston to clean any carbon build up that might be on the inside of the ring and also to clean the piston grooves and landings of any carbon that might be built up on them as well. (unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of this process). After carefully installing the rings back on the piston, I can now start reassembling the engine with new crankshaft seals and all new gaskets. I should also mention I coat the piston and rings and all the bearings with two stroke oil just prior to assembling so nothing will be dry inside the engine on initial start up. After the engine is assembled I installed the ignition system and set the timing. First thing I did was set the base plate to my chisel mark I had previously made before removing as a reference point. Next, I installed the cam and pre-lubed the cam lubricating wick. Next I set the new set of points to the low end of the specs then I installed my timing gauge and using my multimeter on the points so I know exactly when the points open I was able to see how close I was to the original setting. And rotating the engine the points would open at exactly at 0.110 thousand of an inch before TDC (which is exactly on the high end of the spec). Now I know the timing is in spec, I can lock it in place and then install the flywheel and torque it to spec. I then installed the fan shroud and the muffler and then I will overhaul the carburetor.