Here We Go Again !!! Diablo 502 For This Dec !

[Go Go Diablo]

The heavy washers under the spring bumpers are factory and their purpose is to add more "lift" to the bogie stations next to the sprockets. The added "lift" assists with getting the tracks on and off the sprockets cleanly.

The heavy washers go under the bumpers on the front bogie stations and the rear bogie stations. In addition, you may have noticed that the first 6 stations have the bumper in the hole farthest away from the pivot pin but the last station next to the Idler Sprockets have the bumpers installed in the hole closest to the pivot. Again, an engineered design to add "lift" to that station.

An interesting note about the bumper placement; if you look in the parts catalog for the 502/503, you will see that the single bumper bogie stations next to the Idler Sprocket have a different part number than the other single bumper bogie stations. It's the placement of the bumper that is the difference between one part number and the other.

[Red Devil 500]

Well after attending the St Jerome show with Barrie and Jeff and his wife I picked up a few more of the parts required to keep moving on the Diablo restoration.These pictures are of Barrie Master of the yellows handy work .Very nice work.I also gave up on the restoration of the nose cone and ordered a new one from Bruce.These two guys Barrie and Bruce do make the restoration of thee machines easier.Without them we would be lost.Hope you had a good trip home Jeff and Barrie.Also picked up a piston and gasket and seal kit for the Hirth and a fist full of brake pads if anyone needs brake pads Barrie has two fist fulls.

Sean

[Red Devil 500]

Well after beating banging heating soaking I have given up on the piano hinge so tonight I have chiseled the thing off.And will replace it with a new one.

[Red Devil 500]

Well I have replaced the piano hinge turned out ok.Now all parts are ready for sand blast and paint I will send out Monday.And over in the corner of the shop was the dreaded clutch and chain case!I could hear the dam thing calling my name.I have heard the stories on how these things don not come apart.So i went at it Pull the clip from the clutch spun the unit on its side and it slide off NO SHIT!Bearings came off with a few small taps .The drives needed a little heat but not as bad as i was expecting.When i pulled the covers i could not believe how good it looked.So question do i replace the chain or not?I will do all bearings and seals for sure.Anything else i should know?As soon as i get this together i will tear down the engine.

[Go Go Diablo]

My observations about replacing the chain is this.

I've pulled apart dozens and dozens of gearboxes and except for maybe once or twice, I've always found the chains to be in good shape. I believe this size 50 chain is significantly oversized for the horsepower it is being used for. If the gearboxes have had any lubricant in them, chances are the chain is fine. And looking at yours, it's typical and in good condition too.

Gearbox tips include:

- If the lower bearing is loose in the case, Loctite makes a bearing retainer product to take up clearance in a loose bearing fit. A tight fit means less chance of oil leaking past the OD of the bearing.
- When pressing in the upper bearings, press the outer bearing into the case first. Press the other bearing on the input shaft. Then press the shaft with the bearing into the case and bearing. Seems to work every time.
- Often the bolt holes in the metal cover are caved in a bit. Tap them slightly to bend them outward which will put more pressure on the gasket before the covers bottom out by the bolt holes.
- Permatex on both sides of the gasket and a good amount placed between the cover halves seems to work well. Assemble and snug the cover bolts up. Then let it sit an hour for the Permatex to firm up. Then further tighten the cover bolts.

Bruce

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