Bolens Diablo Rouge and Hus Ski Discussion Forums

Hoping to tap the expertise of this great group of owners/site.

Restoring a 1965 444 Hus ski. Would appreciate any information on where to purchase the following parts:

1. the rubber track
2. the stainless "piano hinge" that holds the rubber track segments together
3. the wooden cleats (hard maple seems to be the best?)

In addition, I'm replacing the points/condensor on the JLO L252 motor. I'm trying to remove the flywheel with a 8" gear puller. There is not enough room to engage the gear puller levers around the flywheel. Have the folks that done this please provide some guidance? Any advice on the points/condensor replacement? I am not getting any spark so I thought this was the next logical step.....

Thanks!

Hi there

For your points and condensor give this guy an email. He has lots of parts for our JLO motors
ppurych@onlink.net

Take Care
Rock

You can make your own flywheel puller or buy the one on ebay. Making your own is simply a 1/2" flat metal large enough to cover the three taped holes in the flywheel. Drill the three holes and screw in the bolts. In the center of the three holes you need another hole threaded for a 1/2" dia bolt. Thread in this center bolt until it contacts the end of the crankshaft. Apply some pressure then hit the center bolt with a hammer. If it doesn't come off, tighten it some more and hit again. If these instructions are not clear, call me at 819 687 2795 Inthe evening is best.

Thanks - fabricated the flywheel puller and it worked great!

Also have recieved new points and condensor....

The existing condensor has a thick film of crust, and it appears the two wires that are attached are soldered in place.

Questions:

to replace the condensor, should I just snip the wires free and resolder to the new condensor? any suggestions/help is appreciated. (I know just enough to be dangerous with this).

Also, the coil with the lead to the spark plug is wrapped, while the other coil is exposed. is this normal? I also noticed a small pool of oil in this area upon removing the flywheel - I wonder why?

Thanks!

Before you remove the stator plate, I recommend making a scratch on the stator plate frame and on the part it bolts onto. With these indexing marks, you can replace the stator plate where it was when the engine was firing correctly....we must assume it was working well last time it was run. Rotating the stator plate advances or reterds the spark. One of the coils is an ignition coil while the other is for lighting. The ignition coil is the one with the spark plug wire connected to it. They do not look the same. In the 252 engine , the ignition coil looks like it is wrapped in orange paper while in the 148 engine it is encased in black plastic. As for the condencer wires, you should melt the old solder then resolder them so as to not reduce the length of the wire. The length of wore doesn't matter other than it may become too short some day. Your lack of spark may be due to fouled points. If you put a very fine piece of emery cloth between the points, press them closed then pull the emery cloth from between the points. Do this several times , then check for spark. Remember to regap your points if you change them.

I'm making good progress thanks to the folks on this site....

Next think to tackle are my clutches, which are quite rusty. Any maintenance tips for the engine (primary) and sled (secondary) clutches? I've sanded them gently with emery cloth - should I lubricate as well? If so - where and how?

Thanks