444 Tracks

[Jano]

How tight should my tracks be. The book says 36'' between both axles. Anyone run them a little loose or very tight? I adjusted mine recently as per manual and they seem a little tight.

Thanks for the insight.

Jano

[Barrie2777]

One thing for certain about the belting is that it is not always the same length. I have removed belting that is 101" to 103" long, luckily not from the same machine. That is actual belt length and not taking into account worn cleats . To say the axels should be 36" apart is a little difficult since if the belting length is different , then the axel distance will change. Going by the two lengths above, that difference could be 1-1/2". What is important is that the belting on any one machine is of the same length from side to side. A significant difference in length will make your HUS-SKI "pull" to one side or the other. Back to the tension issue.....fiddle string tight is not good in my opinion since it will be harder to turn the track nor will the tracks turn freely as you pull it forward or backwards. I would like the track to turn freely when the tractor unit is pulled forward or backwards on snow. Too loose of coarse causes too much "slap" but I run my tracks with "sag" along the top . The 444 I just finished has original belting on it now. It is tensioned to 37" axel centers but I find it still too loose....it loosenes as I use it and the cleats are 1/2 worn through (new tracks are being made and hopefully before the Alliston show) 37" x 2 = 74" plus pi x dia ( 9.75" x 3.1416 = 30.6") for a total operating belt length of 104". I would tension the belting to have a "sag" of 1" to 1-1/2" irregardless of axel distances.

[Barrie2777]

I finally got around to finishing the tracks for my 444 which I restored last fall..EYKS!!! These tracks are as close to NOS as you can get...new rubber, new belt lacing , new cleats and new ice cleats.. OK when all assembled they were both exactly 101-9/16" lacing to lacing. The rear track tightener was all the way out with the old belts so I loosened it all the way in for the new belting. I put them on and pulled the ends together with a tie down ratchet just as is done with the Diablo tracks, slipped in the pin then tightened the track tightener so that the castle nut was just clearing the end of the tightening bolt. Measuring the center to center distance I had 35-3/4" which is 1/4" less than the manual. I left them at this tension because they seemed too tight at 36" center to center. On the cement floor, the tracks would turn when the tractor was pulled back. I started the test drive very cautiosly because you never know what is needed to break in a set of new cleats. Sure enough the cleats wanted to follow the cog up between the slider and the cog. Continueing very slowly, letting the cleat release eventually all rolled smoothly and I gradually increased speed. The really big change was that these track run silently....no slapping against the deck and in 5" of powder the ride was amazing. Now I'm ready for the vintage races on Feb 6th!!!! Back to "how much sag" should there be in the tracks....now that I see and feel the difference of a new set, the sag is about 1/2". It would appear that HUS-SKI had designed them to run "tight"

[devil dog]

Hi, I have re-used the original rubber belting and put new wood grousers and stainless cleats,as well as new wood skids. When I went to install the newly rebuilt tracks, I had to back off the adjusters all the way, way beyond the end of the castle nut,and then really stretch them to get the wire in the lacing. Now, I have run them in,and quite a bit of sag. While doing a ride today I heard this very alarming noise,only at higher speeds. I was baffled. Then my friend who was watching the run said the tracks were slapping the fender. Light dawns on marble head. I like the way the 200-A and 400 have the support for the track in the top. I had to tighten the 444 tracks like a guitar string to keep them from slapping . I am not sure if I am more comfortable with having them slap ocasionally ( a terrible sound ) or having them super tight? May look into adding a 200-A support in the future to avoid both.

[Barrie2777]

The new belting I just installed has needed some tightening since the first installation. I am now at 35-7/8". I just checked on the original draftsmans drawing of the HUS-SKI from 1962. The cleat spacing is 3-3/4"...exactly what I do them on the CNC. Wear on the wood cleats , wear on the sliders and stretch in the rubber gives the need to tighten the belts as a regular maintenance.