Bolens Diablo Rouge and Hus Ski Discussion Forums

Hus-Ski Fans

I’ve been working on getting my Hus Ski 200/200A(acquired in the spring) ready for this winter. It’s in respectable shape but upon first tearing it down, some issues have surfaced. I could use some comments from you Hus-Ski fans out there

The JLO engine had no spark so out it came. After removing the engine, the two raised rails that the engine was mounted to are in bad shape. Someone spent a few hours drilling holes, welding, drilling and welding again. There were two crude steel plates on each side of the base, and on both sides, to which the engine was bolted through the four 'squarish' holes.
Is this normal?
Is this how the fine adjustment for the belt tension should be made? If not I’d like to properly weld decent steel to each raised mount but then I would need a measurement as to where the holes should be, say from the firewall(not the firewall flange).
Do you have a 200, or 200A from which a measurement could be taken to the back-most motor mount center hole?
or does one of your buddies have one?

I don’t know if the belt that came with the machine is the correct one either. There are no markings on the outside.
What should the outside measurement around the belt be for one of these machines?

Thanks for any help you can send my way.

Ed

This is a picture of what Ed is talking about if it helps.

After Bruce posting a picture, I clearly see your quandary now. Here is what I would do. I would start by carefully cutting out those 4 rusted square holes out using a small dye grinder cutting disk. Then using a mig welder, I would refabricate those two raised rails with same size material and then having started with a new surface to work with. Next I would set the drive chain tension because the jack shaft adjustment for the chain pivots in an arc around its mounting bolt so effectively you can change the location of the secondary clutch or as hus ski calls it the vari-sheave. So to be clear, this is why you have to set the tension/adjustment of the chain first to set the location of the vari-sheave (or secondary clutch).
Next I would set the engine in place with its aluminum mount and the primary clutch on the engine. Next I would carefully set the offset of the two clutches as described by Hus ski. Next I would install a new drive belt on the two clutches and set the adjustment for distance as described by Hus ski. Once I have done this I would mark the locations of the 4 holes on the refabricated frame rails and then remove the engine again and drill the holes out. The holes are elongated to allow for forward and backward adjustments as well as some lateral adjustment. Bear in mind all these adjustments still have to allow the muffler to be located in the exhaust port on the side of the body.
I would also use new nuts and bolts and new rubber mounts that go in the aluminum engine mount.
You also asked what belt size could be used on a 200A. Some people use a Dayco HP2003, I personally have used the HP3007 . I found the 3007 works better but that is just me...
I have also tried to include some photos that might explain some of my ramblings a little clearer.
Hope this helps. Maybe some other Hus ski fans have some suggestions or other thoughts You can also get reproduction manuals from Barrie Graham if you don't have them. This might help you too

SnoCatPete

You are my saviour. Very good advice. Yes I can see that setting the chain tension first is key as the hinged secondary clutch does travel back and forth with the settings. Yes I think it's best to start all over. I've got a fabricating shop close by that can form those two channels. The current channels have way too many welds and cracks throughout. A new base for the engine would make life easier. The rubber mounts seem to be in reasonable shape except for one. I will contact Barrie for those items. The two explanation pages will help to align and pulleys and then set the proper tension.

Thanks so much.... nice to have someone out there who knows his stuff.

Ed

PS and NB >>>>>> A big thanks to Bruce for posting the picture. I gotta learn how to do that.

I just pulled a 200A chassis apart, and the motor mount area looked exactly like the photos that Bruce posted.
As with your machine, someone had improvised some plates, etc. to kind of hold the motor in in place.
It appears that the area where the motor mounts was a weak point in these machines, leading to fracturing and eventual failure.
The suggestions for correcting the problem make sense to me.
Mike