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Hus Ski 200 Primary Clutch Removal

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:27 pm
by Go Go Diablo
Hi Guys,

Tom from Bay City, Michigan is restoring his 200 and wonders how the Primary Clutch comes off the engine. He asked me, but I don't know. Taper shaft, threaded, ????? If someone knows a good process to remove the clutch, please share.

Thanks,

Bruce

Re: Hus Ski 200 Primary Clutch Removal

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:41 pm
by Barrie2777
The 148 JLO has a tapered, keyed shaft just like its big brother the 252JLO. Removal is a *#@!!## but can be done with care. First and foremost DON'T PUT A PULLER ON THE FIXED SHEAVE. This usually results in a bent or broken sheave. Secondly don't put a long punch through the clutch and pound on the end of the crank. This results in a bent crank end which will no longer be able to accept the clutch retaining bolt. My method, although not sanctioned by qualified mechanics, has worked flawlessly for me on many engines. First I remove the clutch retaining bolt and flood the end of the crank with a "loose nut" type of liquid. Replace the clutch retaining bolt and leave it for a week or longer if you can relax about this procedure. These next steps need a cool head and a steady hand. If you are all revved up about getting that clutch off you better sit down and have a cup of tea. If it is beer, then leave it for another week. I create outward pressure on the fixed sheave by using two wedges. Both placed behind the sheave, next to the crank and directly opposite each other. The wedges should be long enough to reach across the crank seal to rest on either side of the crank bearing housing. Drive those wedges in evenly until they are very tight, back out the clutch retaining bolt about 1/8 turn, and hit it with a hammer. Be sure you hit it squarely. Hitting off square may also damage the end of the crank. Retighten the wedges, hit the retaining bolt. Repeat this sequence a few times but it should be off after two cycles. Now you can have the beer.