Diablo Shop 503

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Schoobytwo (Bruce)
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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:32 am

The typical upper aluminum spacer is just straight. If you have not noticed by now, there is no seal in this area. Another potential problem is if your E-clip ever pops off your secondary clutch while you are out on the trail, the clutch slides off the shaft slightly and this allows the top gear to fall off the splines and there you sit.

I had a few spacers made up with a shoulder on them. In theory, this should leak less oil and if the E-clip does come off, the shoulder should hold the upper gear on the spline. Pretty neat idea I think.
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Place your upper spacer on the shaft so the upper cover goes on in the proper location. Use a thin cork gasket so when the bottom cover is installed, the seal is on the lower sprocket seal area as needed. Place a bead of RTV on the housing putting a slightly thicker bead on the bottom circle.
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Put the gasket in place and add another bead of RTV again with slightly more sealant on the bottom circle.
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Put your top cover on and put some of the cover bolts in place without tightening them too much. Put a fairly heavy bead of RTV on the surface where the bottom cover overlaps the top cover.
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Put the bottom cover on being careful not to damage the seal. Put the rest of the cover bolts on and just snug them up for now. Let the gearbox sit for a couple of hours to let the RTV set up and tighten the cover bolts.
Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Fri Dec 31, 2021 3:51 pm

When putting the new bearings into the track adjuster blocks, just tap them on the outer race of the bearings with a hammer and walk them into the block. These blocks are very hard but also very brittle and pressing a bearing into them sometimes cracks the block and then you need a new one.

Often you work to get the bearing into the block and once you have it in, it becomes loose and falls out when you are not looking. A loose fit here is not a problem but you might want to tape the block in place while you do the next few steps with the press.
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Place the bearing block on the press and press the shaft into it. Flip it around and do the other side as well.
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Did you ever wonder why the aluminum bushings between the bearing block and the drive sprockets have a little groove in them? These are collapsible bushings. When you press the drive sprockets on, the idea is that the bushing collapses to the proper width to keep everything tight. I'm not sure the tolerances here are critical, so if yours are a little worn, no worries.
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Now press your drive sprockets on being careful to not press on the gearbox internals. I put the shaft down directly onto the press blocks and put the sprocket I am pressing down on top with a socket on it so you can press the shaft through the sprocket far enough to get the E clip on.
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When the sprocket is on, I center punch around the keyway to cave the keyway in just a bit to encourage the key to stay in place.
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Put the E clip in place so the tab goes over the keyway.
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Now you have a good rebuilt gearbox that should serve you well for many years.
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Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Sat Jan 01, 2022 10:40 am

For restorations, I always put new reproduction drive and idler sprockets on. Going through all this work, it would really be a shame to have to pull the gearbox again to replace a drive sprocket. Idler sprockets are a little easier to replace, but you still end up laying the unit on it's side and splitting the tracks.

The idler sprockets get new bearings. Just tapping on the outer races and walking them into the bore of the sprocket works well. Look for the arrow for rotation to make sure they are mounted on the shaft correctly.
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Put the shaft in a vice, install the leaf springs, aluminum bushings and sprockets. Sticking with the NOS theme, I had a new pair of NOS bushings. :D
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Put your shaft in place and bolt them down.
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Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Sat Jan 01, 2022 10:49 am

Now install your gearbox into the chassis. This is a good place for a word of caution. :!:

If your track adjustment bolts are out too far, the tops of the cogs of the drive sprockets can catch on the sharp metal tube in the chassis and literally shear the tops of your cogs off. Look downward through the gap and give yourself at least 1/8" or more.
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If your tracks are less than 106" rubber to rubber, you might find them to be very tight with all good tires and good bumpers. If need be, you can get both of your tracks in place and then carefully place the sprockets in a position where you can turn out the adjustment screws and get the tube of the chassis between the cogs of the drive sprockets. Then install your lacer pins. Then adjust your track adjusters back out again to get your clearance.

But, before you put your tracks on, finish putting the rest of the front end together.
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This is also a good time to put your snow flap on. I use rivets with a fender washer.
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Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Sun Jan 02, 2022 9:44 am

For tracks, lay your two tracks on the floor and compare them for being straight and their length. I measure my track lengths rubber to rubber (not including the metal lacers) and have seen tracks less than 105" and more than 107". I believe depending on the conditions they were stored in that they shrink over time and if one side of the track has seen more of the elements, that is when a track is bowed as one rubber belt has shrunk some and the other did not.

I do not know of a fix for a bowed track. I've put tracks on that have been bowed an inch without an issue, maybe two inches. But tracks that have bows more than that might be a concern. Don't know. Never tried one with that much bow.

If you have tracks with weather checking in the rubber, that does not seem to be much of a concern. The rubber on these tracks is pretty heartly. If you have an occasional cleat rivet missing, my rule of thumb is one rivet missing on a cleat is ok. Two or more rivets missing - replace the cleat. If a cleat is cracked, replace it. Broken cleats cannot be welded as they will just break again. If cleats are bent, I lay them across a piece of railroad iron and whack them with a hammer to straighten them. If your lacers are poor, those can be replaced too. I'll save track repair for another time.

For this Diablo, I have a NOS pair of tracks that are just about perfect. They are straight and 107" long. They have never seen the snow!
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Lay one track on the Diablo bogies and feed the end back over the idler sprocket and along the chassis bringing them forward across the drive sprockets. Use a ratchet strap to pull them together.
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Put the lacer pins in and fold the ends over.
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When putting on the second track, I do not line up the lacers from one track to the other purposely so that there is not a "thump" every time the two lacers cross the drive sprockets. That's me. It could be fine lining them up as well, just never did that.

Now adjust the tracks and the most important thing is to adjust the adjustment bolts to the same length on each side. If you have tracks that are different lengths, this means one track will be loose and the other tight. Setting the adjustment bolts to the same length puts your gearbox square in the chassis and that is what you want.
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Tracks installed are a beautiful sight!
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One last thing before you flip it over is take a look at your idler sprockets and track clearances on the back. If you need to move the idler sprocket shaft left or right to make sure the tracks are not hitting the back of the chassis, now is the time to do that.
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Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Sun Jan 02, 2022 11:31 am

Back on her feet again!
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The 503 has a chrome bumper, chrome half moon handle and chrome thumb throttle. If you have priced re-chroming parts lately, you know what a shocker this is.
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Now is a good time to install your exhaust leaving the clamps loose till you get the motor in place. Also add your rubber snow shield around the gearbox, a pad for under the fuel tank and for under the battery. If yours are bad, just get some 1/8" or so thin rubber sheating and make new ones. Also install the rubber motor mounts and support bumper.
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This Diablo will get a newly fabricated fuel tank. Even though new, this one has a liner installed inside and out to make for a rust-free life.
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Cleaning and putting a liner in your tank is a good fix for a rusty tank or one that leaks, but you have to do it right. Below is a video on how I refurbish tanks.

https://youtu.be/wx70R1qHWEY
Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

RobertM
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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by RobertM » Sun Jan 02, 2022 6:05 pm

Great build with lots of good info and pictures. You make it look easy when I know its a lot of work. Its cool that you found all the NOS parts. Keep it up.

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Mon Jan 03, 2022 9:54 am

Thank you for the encouragement Robert.

On to the Secondary Clutch:

To get the clutch apart, it is best to use a press. But if you have to, two guys working together can get it apart too.
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The secondary shown is an updated NOS secondary with bolts for the pins and set up with more spring tension than the typical originals with riveted pins and a snap ring holding it together. No matter the version, it's best to pull it apart and clean it up looking for cracks or other issues.
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If the pins are loose, you can sometimes tighten them back up. If you need to replace them, a shouldered bolt can be used and once installed, cut the head off.
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I like to sandblast the surfaces and then paint the outer halves to make it look nice.
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Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:47 am

Once the secondary clutch is on, you can put the hood mount on.

Grind off the paint on the ends of each hinge loops on both the hood mount and the hood.
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For a replacement hinge pin, I use a piece of 2mm stainless rod. Sharpen one end of it. Then slide it through the hood mount and bend any loops necessary to get the pin to pass through them all easily.
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Do the same with the hood.
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Then install the hood mount on the chassis.
Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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Re: Diablo Shop 503

Post by Schoobytwo (Bruce) » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:59 am

To recondition your dash, clean it with thinner or other prep liquid. I really like this Prep All.
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If you have cracks, you can use fiberglass or other plastic adhesives to fix up a dash. If you have a piece broken off, that is far more difficult to fix. Once fixed up, you can paint your dash with SEM Landau Black paint and they turn out awesome!
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Install your dash and handlebars. Leave the handlebar mounting bolts loose for now and tighten them after completing the wiring.
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Install the key switch. If you have an old original key switch with the terminals around the outer perimeter of the back of the switch, replace it. These have been known to fail and burn the wiring back into the motor. I install a stack of washers behind the key switch so I can really tighten it into the dash. Otherwise, it will come loose later on.
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Install your choke cable as well.

Now you can install the hood placing it such that the hinge loops line up and with some luck, you can work the pin through the loops.
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Once installed, you can form the hood to sit straight and match the profile of the dash if you have to by bending, pulling, tweaking and such.
Too many Diablos and parts to count.
Yamaha 600 SX

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