Bolens Diablo Rouge and Hus Ski Discussion Forums

After shaping the stainless steel covers and varnishing the wood skid, I assembled the two pieces together and they are now ready to be installed at a later date.

Back in an earlier posting I said a new drive chain would be required. Fortunately since then I was able to acquire a NOS replacement drive chain hus ski part # 180-1689. And now I am debating if I should use it or just use a new high-quality diamond brand replacement chain. Because if I do use it, it will wear and wear out and eventually need to be replaced, then it’s gone forever or do I save it and use it as a display piece ? This is the ONLY time I’ve ever seen a hus ski NOS drive chain. But I guess I could ask the same question about the NOS skis i have for this restoration ...use them or save them??


I guess I will decide that when it’s time for final assembly ??

This is a comparison between the original and the NOS

The original tracks were completely worn out and there was no question that new ones would need to be built. Fortunately none of the steel channel cleats were missing as these would need to be removed and reused on the new ones. After the steel channel cleats were removed I gave them a thorough cleaning to get them down to bare metal and then a couple of coats of black paint . Next I had to cut, drill and varnish all the wood cleats, then pre-drill all the new rubber belting. Then it was time to start assembling the tracks. I use rivets and washers like the originals.

One thing I did differently from the original tracks is I used alligator type lacer clips rather than the original clipper type lacers. I did this for two reasons: 1 - I think they are a stronger design and 2 - I have the tools to install the alligator lacers.

It doesn’t matter what method you use, building or rebuilding Hus-ski tracks is a lot of work!

removing and painting ice cleats

Assembling tracks

Installing lacer clips and brand new tracks

Aren't tracks fun!! I have a spare set built for my 600 and I hope I never need them. Jim

After test fitting all the sheet metal parts together and making sure they fit nicely it was time to take it apart and take it to the media blasting and then get it prepped for paint.
In order to move this restoration forward I had to out source the media blasting to remove all the old paint and any surface rust. Normally I do this myself but the local DIY place I go to is closed due to the pandemic.
Now that it’s back from media blasting I have to refit the parts to make sure everything still fits nicely. Then it’s on to prepping the bare metal for priming and then eventually the final paint.

Today I picked up the primer and paint. Both the paint and the primer I use is a three-part single stage automotive type paint.
It requires a spray gun and compressed air to apply the primer and paint so my next step now is to get all the parts into the paint booth and start painting. Wow, automotive paint is expensive!! But this type of paint will have a hard, shiny, durable finish that will last another 50 years.