200

These posts document restoration experiences of our members
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:48 pm

After a complete disassembling, a good cleaning from top to bottom is required in order to see any and all cracks and any other damage hiding under all that dirt!
The frame's sheet metal has many cracks in it, all of which can be repaired. The engine mount holes on the frame are badly cracked and broken out. A very poor attempt to repair it was done with some metal plates welded over the holes and the holes looked like they were cut out with an axe.
This is why I debated over whether or not to just clean the 200 up and make it a good trail rider or go forward with a full restoration. The front “fender” is so dented up and the cross tube is completely gone. I am not sure if it is worth trying to straighten it out or just replace it with a new one. Either way, it has to be removed in order to repair it.
After removing the rusty plates and cleaning up the frame and seeing the extent of the original damage, I used a mig welder to fill in all the cracks from both sides (top and bottom) and I used a die grinder to smooth off the excess weld, leaving it as good as new.
I also use this diagram to make sure the adjusting holes are in the correct location. This diagram is just a guide and may vary between machines.
I welded all the cracks in the sheet metal and filled in all unnecessary drilled holes. I also repaired the 4 track guides at the front sprocket that were badly damaged - one was completely ripped off. Another interesting part that was damaged that I have never seen before: one of the bolt holes that holds the end plate that holds the front axle in place was broken so effectively only one bolt would be holding the end plate to the frame. So this was a pretty easy fix. I cut the broken part out, made a new one and welded it back in place. Without a good thorough inspection, I probably wouldn't have caught this broken part.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:49 pm

Giving the frame a thorough cleaning.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:52 pm

Moving the old "frame repair" for the engine mounts
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:58 pm

cleaning up the original damage and getting it ready for welding repairs.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:00 pm

repaired engine frame with welding and grinding followed with a coat of temporary primer. The two diagrams show bolt hole locations. As mentioned, this is just a guideline.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:01 pm

Removing front fender for repair or replacement.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:17 pm

This is the bolt hole that was broken and the repair done to it.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:21 pm

repairing front track guides
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:41 pm

After removing the front fender, I acquired a new replacement fender but still wasn't sure if I should use the new one or the old one. I started repairing the old one, hammering and dollying it, I decided I could straighten it and reuse it. (a LOT of hammering and dollying) It was ready to be reinstalled. I also had to install a new front tube to weld it to as I mentioned, the original one was completely gone. There is some minor rust pitting which I think I can either fill using a high build primer or a very thin of finishing filler. I prefer to use the original sheet metal as much as possible but since I purchased a new front fender I have decided to use that as a rear snow flap. Since this is a 200, I think it would look more original.
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snocatpete
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Re: 200

Post by snocatpete » Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:49 pm

on the front tube coming off the frame, I had to extend the metal to meet the cross tube. The following pictures are of repairing that tube and installing the new fender support tube.
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