Bolens Diablo Rouge and Hus Ski Discussion Forums

BARRIE AT SOME POINT I WOULD BE INTRESTED IN SEEING A COMPLETE JLO L252 REBUILD AND THE TOOLS NEEDED TO DO IT THANKS THE 400 IS LOOKING GOOD!

After a quick clean up of the engine parts....

Ok.... I confess..... Those cleaned parts are not from the oily old motor with the busted up flywheel but are actually NOS engine parts and really did need only a quick clean up. Husski fan suggested showing a jLO motor rebuild so I have shifted gears to do just that. After all, this 400 deserves a motor with new exterior parts. I need everything else from parts motors I have.

I'll back up a couple steps. Starting with a complete JLO 252, the first step is to remove the recoil, starter cup and flywheel motor shroud. This is quite simply done by removing all bolts securing these parts. You need a 10 mm wrench or socket.

When you take off the starter cup, there should be a paper gasket between it and the flywheel. This helps keep dirt out of the points etc. and should be replaced if damaged during removal. It may remain stuck to the starter cup, if so just leave it there. The large nut can be removed with an impact drill. My 18v Makita is essential for removing old nuts and bolts. Once the flywheel nut is removed, attach a three armed puller in the three holes where the starter cup was bolted. Pulling pressure applied by the impact driver will usually easily remove the flywheel. By this time you should have a small parts tray handy to collect the array of stuff coming out from here on not to mention the pile of bolts and washers you have already removed. If this is your first venture this deep into an engine, then putting the bolts back in where they came from often is easier than remembering where they came from.

As soon as the flywheel loosens from the tapered shaft, remove your puller then pull the flywheel straight back. You must take note of the position of the woodruff key slots. There are two slots on the points cam and two on the flywheel. For the right hand rotation they usually have offset orientations but I have heard of engines that will only run correctly if the slots all line up. The points cam is marked "R" and "L" but the flywheel is not marked!! (see the first photo)

Remove the woodruff key, the cam and cam spring.

Barrie - that 400 engine's flywheel that is missing all the cooling fins, I hope you are seriously not going to try and reuse that! As I see two probems. The first one that you mentioned is obvious - it is going to be very low on its cooling capacity without cooling fins. And secondly, the balance of it is going to be right out the window with that one cooling fin that is left standing by itself lol

JB Weld is supposed to fix everything!!

The first photo shows one of three screws which hold the stator plate in position. If your motor was running before the rebuild then you should mark the stator plate and the base that it is attached to, with two punch marks or a scratch so you can place it back in the good position. The positioning of the stator plate is what advances or retards the spark according to TDC of the piston. Once the stator plate is marked, remove the screws and take it off. The spark plug wire comes from the ignition coil, then through the flywheel housing and the ignition coil is attached to the stator plate. If you cannot remove the spark plug cap to be able to pull the wire through the flywheel housing, then unscrew the spark plug wire from the ignition coil.