400 restoration project

[Barrie2777]

The ice cleats are usually badly pitted from rust caused by sitting outdoors on the ground for decades. I use a wire wheel in a drill and give them a cleaning then spray them with this "Rust converter" product prior to a "rust" primer and paint. The rust converter seems to work as advertised by solidifying the rust dust into a hard compound ready for paint. I have used it for years on items like this and have had no rust issues ever come later. Go to https://youtu.be/bOjnzun0syI to see the riveting process for this track. Please bear in mind that this is my first youtube upload.

[Barrie2777]

When building a 400 or 200-A track, I find it easier to assemble each cleat in its entirty as you go but with the 444 track I find it easier to insert all the rivets ( with washers against the rubber), then put in place about eight wood cleats with their respective ice cleats, then rivet these in place and move onto the next bunch. There isn't much better looking than a new set of 444 tracks with those repro stainless ice cleats!! Thanks Bruce.

[Barrie2777]

I'm jumping all over the place with what I am restoring but all this has to be done so while the engine cranks are out being repaired I do the other stuff. The skis are nearly finished. I added the jump chains and the ski runner on the bottom. The jump chain is fixed at the ski tip with a 1-1/4" #10 x 24 round head machine screw. The bolt goes through the first hole of the ski runner and is secured with an acorn nut. The remaining holes in the ski runner are held with rivets. I have used solid head rivets with a 1/2" diameter aluminum washer. Very easy to pean these as they are very soft. The rivets are flat head with 90 degree under the head so they fit well into the countersunk hole in the runner.

[Barrie2777]

These tracks are very close to original appearance with the rivets and machine screws holding everything together.

[jayvee43]

You never cease to amaze me Barrie. You have the Magic touch. LOL

One day when I get rich, I want one of them there restore.

Thanks for sharing. I also enjoy watching your progress.

Jesse

[Barrie2777]

This end of the gas tank was badly pitted. Some pits were perforated. I spot welded them closed then poured some mineral spirits in the tank to check for leaks. My welding held up but there was "seam leaking" at both ends of the tank. I coated the inside with a gas tank sealer sold by CASWELL intended to do a three gal or smaller tank. It is essentially an epoxy which you mix, pour in the tank, rotate the tank for several minutes then let it harden. As simple as that providing your tank is clean and dry. The gas tank is held in place by two brackets. The rim of the tank is sandwiched between a metal strip and the bracket. We can only guess why that metal strip is there but they seem to be unique to one end of the tank and cant be reversed. The brackets are held in place with two 5/16" x 3/4" hex head bolts. These bolts not only hold the brackets to the firewall but also pass through the cross linkage assembly to hold it in place on the opposite side of the firewall. Don't forget to attach the gas tank to the brackets before you try to assemble these parts on two side of the firewall because its not possible afterwards and you will have to do it all again. One last thing to be cautious of is the clearance between the throttle rod and the gas tank. If the throttle rod rubs on the gas tank, you will not have smooth operation of the gas feed. The spring for throttle return, is hooked in the side grill. I try to keep the pull as much in a straight line as possible.

[Barrie2777]

This shows about 1/16" clearance between the throttle rod and the gas tank. Part of the gas tank rim could be cut away if needed.

[Barrie2777]

serial number 40810

400 dash.JPG (32.52KiB)Viewed 4632 times

This serial number indicates that 810 model 400 were built. I doubt many more than that were made, making the model 400 the HUS-SKI with the fewest number of machines made.

[Barrie2777]

rear flap.JPG (26.74KiB)Viewed 4608 times

Rumor has it that my crank shaft is coming soon so I put on this last part to complete the tractor unit. I use 1\8" rubber for the rear flap. If anyone has a source for the original material, please let me know.

[Barrie2777]

I use a block to apply even pressure to remove the seal then bath the oil laiden parts with lacquer thinner.