400 restoration project

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husskifan
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by husskifan » Wed Feb 10, 2016 9:48 am

BARRIE AT SOME POINT I WOULD BE INTRESTED IN SEEING A COMPLETE JLO L252 REBUILD AND THE TOOLS NEEDED TO DO IT THANKS THE 400 IS LOOKING GOOD!

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Barrie2777
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Location:Arundel Quebec

Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Sat Feb 13, 2016 5:32 pm

After a quick clean up of the engine parts....
Barries Motor.JPG
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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Sun Feb 14, 2016 8:53 am

Ok.... I confess..... Those cleaned parts are not from the oily old motor with the busted up flywheel but are actually NOS engine parts and really did need only a quick clean up. Husski fan suggested showing a jLO motor rebuild so I have shifted gears to do just that. After all, this 400 deserves a motor with new exterior parts. I need everything else from parts motors I have.

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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Sun Feb 14, 2016 1:49 pm

I'll back up a couple steps. Starting with a complete JLO 252, the first step is to remove the recoil, starter cup and flywheel motor shroud. This is quite simply done by removing all bolts securing these parts. You need a 10 mm wrench or socket.
Attachments
intact JLO 252.JPG
intact JLO 252.JPG (46.92KiB)Viewed 5969 times
unbolted.JPG
unbolted.JPG (51.67KiB)Viewed 5969 times

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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:23 pm

When you take off the starter cup, there should be a paper gasket between it and the flywheel. This helps keep dirt out of the points etc. and should be replaced if damaged during removal. It may remain stuck to the starter cup, if so just leave it there. The large nut can be removed with an impact drill. My 18v Makita is essential for removing old nuts and bolts. Once the flywheel nut is removed, attach a three armed puller in the three holes where the starter cup was bolted. Pulling pressure applied by the impact driver will usually easily remove the flywheel. By this time you should have a small parts tray handy to collect the array of stuff coming out from here on not to mention the pile of bolts and washers you have already removed. If this is your first venture this deep into an engine, then putting the bolts back in where they came from often is easier than remembering where they came from.
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pulling flywheel 1.JPG
pulling flywheel 1.JPG (48.44KiB)Viewed 5964 times
pulling flywheel 2.JPG
pulling flywheel 2.JPG (46.84KiB)Viewed 5964 times

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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:31 pm

As soon as the flywheel loosens from the tapered shaft, remove your puller then pull the flywheel straight back. You must take note of the position of the woodruff key slots. There are two slots on the points cam and two on the flywheel. For the right hand rotation they usually have offset orientations but I have heard of engines that will only run correctly if the slots all line up. The points cam is marked "R" and "L" but the flywheel is not marked!! (see the first photo)
Attachments
stator,cam and woodroof key.JPG
This is what you should see when the flywheel is removed
en
stator,cam and woodroof key.JPG (43.06KiB)Viewed 5951 times
stator parts.JPG
stator parts.JPG (31.92KiB)Viewed 5951 times

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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:46 pm

Remove the woodruff key, the cam and cam spring.
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removing cam.JPG
pull the cam off after removing the woodruff key
removing cam.JPG (41.54KiB)Viewed 5951 times
cam spring.JPG
This is the cam spring which goes on before the cam
cam spring.JPG (38.51KiB)Viewed 5951 times

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snocatpete
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by snocatpete » Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:35 pm

Barrie - that 400 engine's flywheel that is missing all the cooling fins, I hope you are seriously not going to try and reuse that! As I see two probems. The first one that you mentioned is obvious - it is going to be very low on its cooling capacity without cooling fins. And secondly, the balance of it is going to be right out the window with that one cooling fin that is left standing by itself lol :shock:

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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Fri Feb 19, 2016 9:12 pm

JB Weld is supposed to fix everything!! :lol:
Last edited by Barrie2777 on Sat Feb 20, 2016 5:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Barrie2777
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Re: 400 restoration project

Post by Barrie2777 » Sat Feb 20, 2016 5:19 pm

The first photo shows one of three screws which hold the stator plate in position. If your motor was running before the rebuild then you should mark the stator plate and the base that it is attached to, with two punch marks or a scratch so you can place it back in the good position. The positioning of the stator plate is what advances or retards the spark according to TDC of the piston. Once the stator plate is marked, remove the screws and take it off. The spark plug wire comes from the ignition coil, then through the flywheel housing and the ignition coil is attached to the stator plate. If you cannot remove the spark plug cap to be able to pull the wire through the flywheel housing, then unscrew the spark plug wire from the ignition coil.
Attachments
removing stator plate.JPG
removing stator plate.JPG (37.28KiB)Viewed 5911 times
coil wire.JPG
coil wire.JPG (38.07KiB)Viewed 5911 times

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